The city of Thebes was the site of mighty temples built on the east bank of the Nile to honour the gods of New Kingdom ancient Egypt. On the opposite west bank was a magnificent burial ground for the pharaohs - the Valley of the Kings. This was the Kingdom of Osiris, god of the underworld. From their grand tombs, the pharaohs believed they would embark on a journey that would see them meet the gods in the afterlife and achieve immortality.

If you want to relax, spend some time in Aswan, the country’s southernmost university town, which, has still managed to retain something of the atmosphere of a colonial, provincial metropolis. Listen to Nubian music while you float down the river on a felucca, a traditional sail boat of a kind used since ancient times. This is where black Africa begins, as you can tell from the music with its African melodies.